Honoring a Family Tradition: Brothers Reminisce on Casa Loma's 35 Years of Business

By Ruth Clarke

Brothers Ramón Eduardo and Francisco
were toddlers when their father Francisco Enrique Urrea Escobosa opened Casa Loma Restaurant on Gaviotas # 104, up the hill from the Golden Zone. “Pancho, our father, was a business man who came here from San Francisco. He had good taste for rich flavors, artistic presentation, and good service,” says Eduardo, who took over the business when he was 19 years old. Father Pancho also must have loved the era of swing music, for he named his restaurant after a band that was active from 1927 to 1963, originally called The Orange Blossoms. The band changed its name when they played at the Casa Loma Hotel, also on a hill in Toronto, Canada. The teen-age inheritors of the restaurant had been trained at Pancho’s knee, and with a dedicated staff, the brothers have maintained the high level of excellence that was their father’s trademark. They manage a staff of 16 to 20 employees. And while they may be forthcoming with the ingredients of the dishes on their menu, they don’t give away their culinary secrets, but share how these delectable items came to be. “Chef Chayito has been with us for 16 years,” says Eduardo. “She has more than 33 years’ experience working with European culinary masters. She and her disciples, Oscar and Hortensio, have learned the ‘old way’ of cooking from scratch, with rich ingredients and artful presentation.” He says if each of them

makes the same dish, it is impossible to taste any difference. The ‘old way’ of presenting food means generous portions, unlike the Iron Chef’s approach to food preparation: artistic, but skimpy portions that leave you feeling hungry. Not so at Casa Loma, according to Eduardo.
“Some of our customers never get to eat dessert, our meal portions are so large,” he says. And that is a shame because Eduardo often prepares their famous banana flambé for customers, a personal touch that patrons enjoy. The European influence at Casa Loma is evident, not only in their cuisine, but also in the dining room décor, with dark wood paneling and red velvet furnishings. The patio’s ambience is Spanish/Mexican, shaded with palms and vibrant with colorful bougainvillea contrasting against comfortable white garden furniture. Eduardo recalls some of the personalities who have dined at Casa Loma: Ronald Regan when he was an actor. Actress Angélica Aragón and her father, singer, Don Angel Ferrusqui are regulars. Don Angel’s recipe for duck is on the menu, says Eduardo. In addition to patrons from the arts, members of the sports community are also regulars.
Eduardo and Carla, his girlfriend, plan to start posting their favorite recipes on Twitter and Facebook, where, if you read carefully, you may discover one of Casa Loma’s culinary secrets.

 


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