Necessity is often the mother of invention, and one local shopkeeper seems to have hit the proverbial nail right on the head. Over on Sixto Osuna, across from the Art Museum and next to the Mazatlán English Lending Library, is a tiny tienda called “Super Ito.” There, proprietor Ignacio Gomez Torres has added an interesting item to his regular lineup of snacks, drinks and assorted sundries: beautiful wood outdoor furniture, hand made by his cousin in the small pueblo of San Javier. You may have seen this furniture around – at the (new) Old Mazatlán Inn on Pedrogoso, for instance – but let me try and describe it to you. The bases and legs are made of hard guasima wood, and the tops and backs are made from the thin branches of the compio tree. On the table, they’re wound in a 48-inch concentric circle; on the oversized chairs, rockers and loveseat, they’re twisted into beautiful designs. And when I say “hecho a mano” I mean it – each one is made to order with a machete. There are also adorable children’s chairs and rockers. Samples of the furniture sit on the sidewalk outside of Ignacio’s shop; they’re hard to miss. They’re weather-resistant but he recommends putting a protective coating of varnish on them. And the cost? $500 pesos for the chairs, $550 for the mesadora (rocking chair), $900 pesos for the table, $900 for the sillon (loveseat), and $250 pesos for the kid’s chairs. Hours are 7 a.m. to 9 p.m. daily, and till 3 on Sundays. While we were talking he told me that the store has been around for 70 years, and reminisced about the “good old days” when the Belmar was in its glory, a bohemian mood prevailed, and Super Ito was the only tienda in the then-peaceful Olas Altas. Ignacio is also an author, and has written three books which are available here: “San Javier,” a history of

the town; “Los Mochomos,” a novel about drug trafficking; and “El Bronco,” a history of Mazatlán. All are in Spanish, but he is currently working on another as-yet-untitled book that will be in both English and Spanish, chronicling the history of Sinaloa from the time before the conquistadors arrived. If you’re in the area, do stop by to chat or have a look-see at the furniture. And Restaurante Puerto Viejo is right up on the corner of the Malecón with fabulous drinks and ceviches, a ringside seat to that marvelous show called puesta del sol – sunset - that happens every night without fail. With the snowbirds leaving, there’s a different mood in Centro now. Their annual migration starts slowly and then quickens, with voyagers heading north to the US, Canada and beyond, and it changes the fabric of our daily lives here. Cupboards are cleaned out, their contents passed on to those few friends who will stay on, and the last few sunsets watched with the nightly group at Puerto Viejo or the Plaza Machado. Goodbyes are said, poignant farewells to people and places that have grown near and dear over these last few months and who we vow we’ll stay in touch with until we return next season. For those who stay year-round, it’s a bittersweet time that heralds the heat and drenching humidity of the summer as well as a drastic change in demographic. Personally, for me it’s a humbling time, as the realization hits home hard that I’m a foreigner in a new land, struggling to learn the language, the customs, the culture and so much more. I stay close to my Mexican friends and acquaintances, building on the relationships already in place and open to fostering more, and also to the small crew who now call Mazatlán our permanent home. For those of you leaving, tenga un buen viaje; for those staying, see you soon!