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There is a beautiful little mining town just northwest of Copala. It is
charming, quaint, and picturesque. Pánuco is hidden in a bowl of mountain
peaks. The cobblestone streets winding through the tile roofed casitas
beg you to walk by foot, as the few cars on the street look completely
out of place in this town that time forgot. There is a town square, surrounded
by iron benches all painted white and a beautiful little gazebo. The church
with its three bells and stark white walls is enveloped by white doves
searching for a roost. There is a fine dirt dust, almost like talc, covering
everything, and giving the bright painted buildings a muted tone. It seems
a ghost town at first and the deep quiet almost deafening. We didn’t find
a restaurant, so we were happy we brought a picnic lunch. As our ears
got used to the quiet we began to tune into noises not usually heard in
a busier town, conversations inside houses, birds in the distance, the
wind in the trees, and an occasional car winding into town; every rock
in the road audible. What a feast for the eyes and ears. I wanted to have
my drawing board and paint with me, and plan that for our next trip. But,
the road to Pánuco is no peach. We tried
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to go last summer in
rainy season, but only got a couple kilometers before turning back because
of the mud. This time we took the little green Volkswagen, went in dry
season, and made sure we had everything we needed to change a tire, or
fix the car if we needed. A kilometer or so past Copala, on your left,
begins the well marked 10 kilometer dirt road. I think this might be “The
Long and Winding Road” the Beatles were singing about. It starts up the
mountain and immediately begins its hairpin turns. It is more like a creek
bed than a road with many potholes and jagged rocks. Many parts of the
road are narrow, only one car wide. There is a wall of rock on your right
and a cliff with a drop of many hundred feet to your left. I found myself
gasping and gripping the dash board many times. José finally said, “You
have to trust me”. I do trust him; it’s the car I didn’t trust. How did
the first settlers here find this place? It might be more appropriately
named “Panic-o”. If you are afraid of heights, this trip might not be
for you. But, if you like beautiful views of the Sierra Madre you will
love it. Definitely bring a camera, a lunch, your art supplies…..and an
extra pair of shorts.
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