The Insider’s Report
A Mazatleca’s guide to the best buys in the Pino Suarez Market

By Sheila Madsen

El Mercado Pino Suarez, the central market, located between Benito Juarez and Aquiles Serdan, in Centro Historico, has been going for more than 100 years, but the fresh produce sold there is only hours old. It’s organized chaos among the myriad stalls and shops. The food isn’t smartly shrink-wrapped with expiry dates, there is no bargaining, and debit or credit cards are not accepted. So relax, take your time and savor the sights and sounds of a lively market, which opens at 6 a.m. but is not really into full swing until 8. In this market I counted: 5 spice and herb stalls, 8 general stores – these are often two stories, and vendors scurry about to get what you need. (Storekeeper James Moreno is most obliging; he speaks English and if he doesn’t have it, he’ll point you in the right direction.) There are 2 bakeries, 22 meat counters, 9 dairy sellers, 12 chicken vendors. 17 green grocers, 8 fish counters plus 2 which specialize in smoked marlin and tuna. And there are countless tee shirt/dress, silver stores and other souvenir shops. Ligia (pronounced Li/hee/ah) Sanchez Canizales, who has shopped at the market all her life, took me to her favorite stores. Following are her favorite stalls and shops. Herbs and Spices: “El Aquila” because it has a huge selection of bulk dried herbs, peppers and spices, as well as natural honey, popcorn, and herbal teas. El Aquila also sells surplus stock of dried cat and dog food, much cheaper than at other locations. General Stores: “La Principal” has the most complete and largest selection of dry goods at the lowest price in the market, and beats all the big box store prices. Bakeries: Both stores are considered equal. They are not meant to compete with the Panama Bakery chain throughout Mazatlán. The basic Mexican goodies are made in the owners´ homes, and many Mexicans buy at these locations because of the simplicity. Meat Counters: “Aguilar” This place has faded pictures of

all the cuts of meats named in English. The meats are fresh and it has the largest selection of various cuts. Is the meat aged? No. But here’s a chef’s hint: Take the skin of a papaya, red wine, or any liquid, put in blender to achieve a light paste, marinate meat for 20 to 60 minutes depending on cut. This really works! Dairy or Cremerias: “Cremeria Guadalajara” has a large selection of butter, cream, yogurt, turkey, ham, bacon, more than eight kinds of cheese—including Goliz Chorizao (Ligia’s favourite), and eggs—the best prices here are even lower on Saturdays and Sundays.
Chicken: “Polleria Meche” is a small stall, so chicken is sold out every day, and therefore, fresh every morning. Green Grocers/Vegetables and Fruits: “La Huertecita”, the vegetable garden, and Ligia’s reasons are that it is very clean, very fresh, and prices are a little lower than the competition in the market, and definitely lower than big box stores.
Fish: Mi Niño, My Son. Look for a small stall, with the fish resting on ice. You will find a large selection of fresh caught char, sea bass, mahi mahi, red snapper (small and large), blow fish, shrimp, calamari, crab, and prepared ceviche. Here, the owner claims that if the fish is not sold by the end of the day, it’s put out for trash (lucky market cats). To test for a fresh fish, open its gills; if it’s red, it’s fresh. A shrimp head’s should be a grey, transparent color if it is fresh. Avoid if the heads are red, orange, or brown. Smoked Marlin and Tuna: Doña Maria because the quality is consistent. (Ligia is available for market tours. Her cell: 044 669 158 1688. Her English is minimal; however, fluency is not necessary in an environment when you just need to squeeze, smell, and select what’s right in front of you) Sheila Madsen lives in Mazatlán full-time and to read more of her writing, visit www.helloboomers.com and read under her web name, Louise Dewar.