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Lila Denton, a daring, vibrant
79 year-young woman made her dream a reality recently when she turned her spacious home on Venustiano Carranza #84, into a restaurant—Tia’s Kitchen: Antojitos Mexicanos -literally, Mexican cravings.
Born in Sacramento, California, she spent most of her life in Oregon, where she kept books for her family’s flooring business. She came to Mexico in 1979 and lived in Teacapán where she learned to prepare local dishes, some of which are included in her menus. In addition, she uses recipes from her friend’s mother who lives near Mexico City, so the cuisine is not necessarily typical of this coastal region. But then, Lila Denton dares to be different.
She doesn’t speak Spanish, but she seems to be able to communicate. She loves working with food, but is not professionally trained—anomalies that haven’t held her back.“I had always wanted to open a restaurant,” she says, “but never thought of having it in my home.” The restaurant idea germinated after long talks with a Mexican friend—also in the restaurant business, who said her house would make a great restaurant. She knew her bright, open kitchen would serve her well since she had taught cooking classes from it for three years. So she purchased a few more blenders, two more fridges, a couple more microwaves, and voilà, her restaurant kitchen was born, awaiting staff that appeared almost magically. Her restaurant license from Hacienda appeared 18 days after applying for it, and after being only a little more than a month in business, she has had as many as 15 people at one sitting, and several repeat customers.“When they come back, that’s a good sign,” she says, smiling. “Some people phone to make reservations and tell me they want to be surprised, not to tell them what they will be having.” She adds that most of her customers are walk-ins. The relaxing atmosphere, good music and comfortable ambience all add to the dining
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experience.
Watching Chef José and his wife Marie-Sol work together in the kitchen is like watching a ballet. Her waiter Carlos trained in California at a Japanese restaurant, and his service is efficient, attentive and almost invisible. He gets a good workout walking from the entrance where four sit in the Frida Kahlo room, through the main dining room where canaries serenade from their aviary, and out to the patio. The bar sits at the ready in a room to the right of the Frida Kahlo room, its liquor license pending. In the meantime, Tia Lila encourages customers to bring their own alcohol. She provides agua frescas, like Jamaica, they make virgin cocktails, and coffee is on the house.
When one of the customers asks Lila if she gets tired, she replies that she doesn’t do anything except try to get glamorous before her guests arrive. But it is obvious that she has done her homework and her planning has paid off.
She and the staff set the menus, with a different main course each day. The meal starts with a botana—appetizer: on Tuesday night it was a gordita followed by a finely pureed corn soup. The main course: stuffed pork chops with cream sauce and a salad, accompanied with bowls of rice, beans and salsas. The meal is topped off by Lila’s signature dessert, bread pudding-made with eight eggs and light as a feather. She will also set menus by special request, is considering “Your Choice Fridays”, where she will offer a set/regular menu as well as fish. She is having a small barbecue built on the patio, a larger one for the roof top area that is available for parties if reserved a week in advance for a minimum of 10 up to 60 people.
Tia’s Kitchen is open from 5pm to 9pm Tuesday through Sunday for dinner, and is also open for breakfast Sundays from 8:30am. Phone: 981-7781 e-mail:
bigcat@mzt.megared.net.mx |
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