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I first discovered the small pueblo of Pánuco while searching for the
ruins of the old church of the Virgin Guadalupe. The Iglesia Hacienda
de Guadalupe was built during the same period as the church in Copala
which was completed about 1775. It is the only church in all of Mexico
with a Papal decree forgiving the sins of those who visit. I eventually
found these ruins and now have a clean slate. Francisco de Ibarra, Spanish
explorer and conquistador, following rumors of rich mineral deposits,
crossed the Sierra Madre Mountains from Durango in 1562 to conquer what
is now southern Sinaloa. His prospectors eventually discovered silver
veins in the new territory, and in 1565, de Ibarra founded the towns of
Copala and Pánuco. He died in Pánuco in 1575 and is rumored to be buried
within the church there. Today, Pánuco is one of only a few small Spanish
colonial villages remaining from the 1500’s and is quaint yet beautiful
with its cobblestone streets. It is located about 45 miles east of Mazatlán
in the foothills of the Sierra Madre Mountains not far from Copala. The
main town is along the Pánuco River, though higher up on a ridge, making
for a longer, narrower village than its small population might suggest.
The river flows year round through the area and I am sure they learned
long ago to not build too close to the water’s edge. I was able to take
the picture of the fruit bats in the ruins of an old processing plant
along the river. My most recent visit was during the fiesta to celebrate
their patron Saint Rosario who is also celebrated in El Rosario, this
past October 4, 5 and 6th. Many of the church’s faithful make a pilgrimage
on foot coming from as far away as Mazatlán and nearby communities. They
have a beautiful church in Pánuco with 3 large bells in a standalone wall
along its rear rather than in a spire. I have heard that doors of the
church were brought
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from the ruins mentioned
earlier. During the celebration of Saint Rosario, the faithful touch or
kiss the statue of the virgin inside the church. In addition to the religious
nature of the festival there were several small bands playing throughout
the day with different major headline bands each of its three nights.
To really see the village, you must walk the streets. From the square,
follow the main cobblestone street and continue with the river on your
left. Eventually you will pass the back of the church and then come to
a concrete bridge that looks a little intimidating because it has no side
rails and it seems rather high over the river. Crossing this you continue
to walk a little further until you reach the literal end of the trail
at a creek that joins the river just upstream. You will have passed some
great photo scenes of old adobe buildings, some in a dilapidated state
while others have been maintained, beautiful shrubs in bloom, several
caged parrots, and just great picturesque scenery. Taking an overnight
trip makes for the most pleasant visit to Pánuco. Stay in Copala where
there are several lodging options then get an early start as the best
photos are early in the day, before the sun gets too strong. To get to
Pánuco from Mazatlán, travel south on 15 then take 40 towards Durango.
In about a half hour you pass through Concordia, continue 15 miles until
you reach Copala. Concordia is the last gas stop, Copala the last stop
for restaurant food and lodging. About one mile past Copala is the turnoff
for Pánuco and from there it is another 10 kilometers on a dirt road.
You can get there by catching an auriga, a small pickup that carries passengers
inexpensively, from either Concordia or Copala, so the road is passable.
However it some places it is a curvy one lane road used by some rather
large dump trucks that makes backing up an occasional necessity. Please
be careful!
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