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Shrimp season started back in June and the ships continue to come in and
out of port in good old Mazatlán. The docks are located principally in
Parque Bonfil, which is a perfect place to catch a different glimpse of
Mazatlán. Watching the sailors unload and load their ships made for a
perfect opportunity to get some insight into the lives of these fishermen.
Their chosen profession has a significant impact not only on their own
lives, but the lives of their loved ones. The Captain, or “Patron” of
the ship is a very carefully chosen individual; this position is not for
all general managers out there, managing a shrimp boat is a different
level of responsibility than most other jobs. A qualified fisherman and
pilot one must not only have an understanding of his vessel and the ocean,
but also the different species of shrimp and their migration patterns.
He must maintain communication with the real world in order to avoid dangers
and keep his vessel on a steady course. Atop all this responsibility he
must organize, lead, and educate his crew. This is accomplished with only
four hours of sleep everyday, working nonstop the entire voyage he sleeps
only two hours after every 8 to10 hour shift, while remaining constantly
on alert and on call. Only because of his years of experience can Capt.
Sildronio smile as he very proudly tells of the rigors of being a fishing
boat captain. The crew consists of fishermen from various ports in Mexico,
different ages and areas of expertise make for a stronger unit who work
together as a family to train and watch over each other. The older fishermen
take on instructive roles, like older brothers they scream orders and
protect the rookie fishermen. With several voyages under their belts they
have a deeper understanding of the ships motor and net functions, instructing
the greenbacks on ship maintenance as well as netting techniques. The
younger, mainly un-married sailors are the muscle of the ship. Working
non-stop through their 20 to 40 day voyage they not only maintain nets
and replace ships parts, they also separate shrimp from all other marine
life caught in the nets, and on their spare time they take the heads off
the shrimp for sale, which is known as “descabezar.” Their
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isolation and constant
contact develops a strong camaraderie, which follows them off ship. The
families of these sailors must become accustomed to the high demands of
the industry. The six month season forces the sailors and their wives
to work part time jobs, sometimes for only six months until the next season
begins. The temporary jobs of the fishermen vary greatly, but their wives
tend to set up shops all over Mazatlán, selling everything from shrimp
to tourist items. Claudia’s husband makes “llaveros” (key chains) on land.
When the season strikes she sets up shop on Paseo Claussen and sells them
while he is away. Other wives take their children down to the “granjas”
(shrimp farm) at the “estero” (estuary), here they work descabezando fresh
water shrimp. The difference at the granjas is that any person of any
age can work there for 2 pesos a kilo. Fernanda explained to me that working
a full 10 hour day she might make 100 to 150 pesos, her elderly counterpart
informed me that if she works really hard with her two grandsons they
together can make up to 300 pesos, maybe 350 pesos. If the families run
into hard times, they can ask for a temporary loan that the fisherman
will have to pay back once the ships cargo is sent to market. Though the
owner of the ship can loan up to 1,500 pesos every pay period, only after
much difficulty can a 300 peso loan be awarded. Claudia takes pride in
telling me that she does not ask for the loan, she tells me that in order
to receive a loan she must contact the owner, the owner must radio the
ship to verify with the sailor, once confirmed she waits on paperwork,
and usually the process takes so long that she has already found support
elsewhere. The payoff is when the ship returns to port, and hopefully
with a full cargo. The ships carry from 12 to 17 tons of shrimp, and payment
is based on the load. Sailors get paid about 1,000 to 3,000 pesos a ton,
and the patron receives 11,000 to 12,000. This is a significant economic
boost for the families, a sailor can leave his wife with enough to buy
and sell shrimp at various markets in and around Mazatlán. When the ship
docks it usually stays for 12 hours before returning to sea, rarely does
it stay longer and only because of possible repairs, otherwise it’s back
to sea.
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