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FFirst was Carnival... then comes Semana Santa and more endless traffic
jams. When younger, it seemed agreeable to party more, but these days
it seems pleasurable to escape some of the noise and see some of the real
Mexico. After all, it isn’t just cheap housing and sunshine that brought
us south. The Mexican calendar seems filled with special days celebrating
a different saint each day of the year. One such saint is San Jose, the
patron saint of Copala, just a half hour east of Concordia on Mex 40,
the highway to Durango. This year San Jose Days coincides with part of
Semana Santa and are celebrated on March 17, 18, and 19th. The small Spanish
colonial mining town comes alive with street vendors, live music in the
plaza, a small carnival with rides for the kids, and gaily dressed locals
truly celebrating their good fortune to live in such a beautiful place
in Mexico. It isn’t hype for the tourists but a true local celebration.
Tourists do come almost daily by tour bus either from the cruise ships
on a day trip or the hotel visitors. Even a few of those who live seasonally
in Mazatlán manage to come for a few hours of comparative tranquility,
and some great food in the local restaurants. If you are an early traveler,
you can get there on a local bus with daily service from Mazatlán or more
frequent service to Concordia and then by catching an auriga, a small
pickup that carries passengers inexpensively. Francisco de Ibarra, Spanish
explorer and conquistador, following rumors of rich mineral deposits,
crossed the Sierra Madre Mountains from Durango in 1562 to conquer what
is now southern Sinaloa. His prospectors eventually discovered silver
veins in the new territory, andin 1565, de Ibarra founded
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the town of Copala.
Today, Copala is one of only a few small Spanish colonial villages remaining
from the 1500’s and is quite picturesque with cobblestone streets. It
has a population of about 650 people, only a very a small number of which
are foreigners. It is located about 40 miles east of Mazatlán in the foothills
of the Sierra Madre Mountains. It is home to the Baroque style stone church
of their patron saint, San Jose. The church was completed in about 1775
though the exact date is unknown. The official documents were destroyed
by the French who temporarily conquered Mexico in the 1860’s. Its completion
was financed by a wealthy miner, the Marquis of Pánuco. There are very
old and beautiful paintings as well as a stunning altar inside. In front
of the church lies the Zócalo (plaza} where live music will be featured
during the celebration. Of course Copala is worth a visit any time! Lodging:
Guest housing is somewhat limited, but comfortable rooms may be had at
Daniel’s hotel. For reservations call Lupita at 669-102-1469. Additionally
David Gonza1ez’s guest house may be reached at 669-102-1328. Rooms are
available in Concordia just 15 miles from Copala and the entire drive
is just a little over an hour from Mazatlán, God willing. Driving Directions:
Depart Mazatlán, heading southeast on Highway 15 towards Tepíc. At Villa
Unión, turn east, or inland, following the signs toward Durango onto Highway
40. You may take either the new road, which currently ends at Concordia,
or take the Libre (free) road. The new highway is quickest and doesn’t
yet charge a toll... but why be in a hurry. From Concordia continue east
on Highway 40 for about 15 miles to Copala, which is off the highway about
¾ of a mile at a well marked turn.
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