As I sit here writing my first column for the Pearl, I’m irritated. I haven’t been able to take a comfortable shower for two days, and once again, the landlord forgot to get gas for the water heater. Normally, hot water isn’t needed – the unheated, “room temperature” water in the shower is fine, what with Mazatlan’s normal climate. But these last few weeks, with this unusual cold, is a different story. It’s hard to let go of my aggravation and I am faced once again with what I am beginning to suspect is my inherent “gringa-ness.” Why does this bother me so much while my landlord’s family, in the house below, seem content to smile, shrug and say “mañana?” Sigh. Ahh, but I digress. Welcome and bienvenidos! “Dentro del Centro” will aim to share some of this neighborhood’s secrets, whether it’s interesting people you might meet, shopping tips, favorite restaurants or news of special events. I’ll try to avoid hearsay and do my best to check facts and be accurate. Because, make no mistake about it, the Golden Zone isn’t the only area that’s booming – El Centro Historico is bustin’ at the seams. Those of you who live down here or visit regularly have seen the changes – and it’s easy to see there’s much more to come. By the time you read this Carnaval will be in full swing. Parades, fireworks, pageants, music and dancing, way into the wee hours. As residents in this end of town, we’ve learned to grab sleep when we can – night time or not – plan our shopping and errands before the party starts every afternoon, and adjust to the Carnaval-induced traffic patterns of people, streets and vehicles. We’ve also figured out that to walk the malecon early on these Carnaval mornings reveals a special charm, as besides the everyday vistas of ocean and cliffs, now one is privy to the event the night before and the prep for the festivities still to come. Young watchmen lay asleep amidst giant banks of speakers; Pacifico vendors are cleaning up and setting up; colorful banners of musicians and sponsors speak eloquently, and sometimes

comically, of the culture. There’s a tangible satisfaction in the air, a shared, quiet happiness. On another note, have you seen Ta Café, the new espresso shop right in the Plaza Machado, on the corner of Heriberto Frias and Sixto Osuna? The sign’s been telling us since June it was coming, and I, for one, am very happy to see it finally open. Operated by the same family that owns Las Brasas restaurant next door, it definitely fills a need at the Plazuela, especially for those of us with a sweet tooth that like a little variety with our, ahem, cravings. There are lots (50+) of comfy chairs and tables on the covered patio and walkway out front, and a big menu of espresso and coffee drinks, herbal teas, smoothies and frappes, bagels and sandwiches, pastries and killer desserts. Hours are 7 a.m. to 11 p.m. daily, and on weekend nights the live music that’s usually set up at the other corner - near Café Pacifico - now is in the blocked-off street in the center of the Canobbio Arcade building. You can even make reservations to be sure you and your group get the exact table you want, by calling 136-09-16. Also new is the Reggae Café, on the Malecón where Gary’s Kitchen used to be, about a block north of the Freeman Hotel. (I’ve heard rumors about Gary opening another, bigger restaurant – Gary, are you out there? What’s the story?!) Just look for the big wooden sign with the carved lion’s head and muted red and yellow lighting. There’s a warm, welcoming ambience and yes, really good reggae music. The new owners have done a great job with decorating, and the simple menu of salads, sandwiches, teas, organic coffee, wine and beer is perfect for the mood they’ve created. Inside, there are big tables, a counter and a lounge area, and outside, facing the Malecón, are more tables on the covered sidewalk. Hours are mid-day to midnight and yes, everything’s available to-go. Oh, and my shower? Well, that’s what friends are for, right? After two phone calls, I found one who was home and had hot water and time to share. As for me - hopefully, maybe, mañana.