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For several years I have been wanting to take the ferry from Mazatlán
to La Paz and finally had that opportunity this spring. Here’s what happened:
After using information from the daily newspaper Noroeste and the ferry
schedule, I made reservations for a hotel in Los Cabos and a return by
air about a week later. Fortunately, about 10 days before the Monday we
were to depart, I stopped at the ferry terminal and discovered that the
Monday departure was for cargo only, but that the ferry leaving the day
before had facilities for passengers. I then tried to purchase tickets
for that Sunday or at least make reservations for two persons and a basic
cabin. But the itinerary wasn’t yet available on the computer. Karla,
who speaks great English, asked me to call on the preceding Monday to
see if the itinerary would be online. After about two hours of busy signals,
I was able to reach her that Monday and was told to come in on Tuesday
to complete the transaction. I arrived there around 10:30 a.m. that Tuesday
hoping that the computerized itinerary would be up and running. Karla,
who was on a LONG phone call, told me to sit down and wait a few minutes.
When she approached me she was carrying a nice glass of cold water, I
knew that those few minutes would morph into 30-45! Finally, she called
me up to the counter and sold me two tickets for travel, one for 770
pesos, and the other for 700 pesos (thanks to my INSEN discount), and
a cabin (camarote) for 250 pesos. The tickets included the price of both
dinner and breakfast, and a seat in the salon if one were inclined to
use it. We were scheduled to sail on the Sinaloa Star at 3:00 p.m. the
following Sunday and were told to arrive two hours ahead of departure.
If we had been taking a vehicle, we’d have been told to be there three
hours in advance. We arrived at the main terminal at 1:30pm and boarded
the ferry 10 minutes later. We proceeded to the information/reception
desk to obtain the key for our cabin and left a driver’s license as security.
A staff member carried our bags, and we had time to explore the cabin
area and the rest of the ship before departing from Mazatlán. The salon,
reminiscent of a very large airplane, has between 250-300 seats that are
shaped to recline slightly. There are restrooms, TV and ample aisle space
for those who elect to sleep on the floor during the overnight voyage.
One family with many children had already made a nighttime “nest” with
blankets and pillows in an aisle space close to the restrooms and next
to a wall. Passengers are able to move about freely on three different
decks. The cabins and salon are on the main deck, cafeteria and lounging
areas one deck up and the top deck houses the bar/lounge. We did not check
out the area that contains vehicles, but no one is allowed to stay with
or in a vehicle during the trip. Much to our surprise the ferry departed
Mazatlán at exactly 3:00pm. With two intermittent blasts of the horn,
she cast off and headed into the horizon! We sat on a bench on deck and
watched the coastline of Mazatlán fade into the distance, then took a
short siesta in the cabin to be fresh for sunset and dinner and any
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evening activities.
Our cabin had four single bunks, two uppers and two lowers, with a sink,
mirror, small sitting area, storage shelves, life jackets, oscillating
fan, overhead light, and reading lamps at the head of each bunk. Beds
came with pillows and sheets. Soap and bottled water were in the cabin.
Showers and bathrooms were located down the hall. Towels were not included.
The showers are postage stamp size, but clean with warm water. Some cabins
are available with only 2 beds and private bath for 400 pesos. We observed
that there were twice the number of hall showers and bathrooms for men
as for women. Guess more men travel on the ferry! Or maybe women prefer
to have the cabins with bath included? The bar/lounge was a good place
to sit and visit for a while before going out on deck to see a perfect
sunset. Hunger set in before dinner was served in the dining area (6:30-8:00pm)
and we were able to buy some popcorn and beverages to keep us content
meanwhile. Dinner consisted of a choice of roast chicken or beef in a
pipan sauce, with rice, beans and tortillas. This was included in the
basic fare, but beverages cost extra. Dinner is served cafeteria style
with lots of seating available on the second deck to enjoy the view and
the food. Staff was friendly and helpful. Afterwards we returned to the
bar/lounge and had kahlua and cream while watching a DVD James Bond movie
(in English) on a large screen TV. The bar also served some basic foods,
carne asada, burgers, fajitas, chi-cken, at reasonable prices. Beers
cost 20 pesos; water, 10; popcorn, 15; mixed drinks, 50. After the movie
and a dose of Dramamine, we had no trouble sleeping. Because it’s so dark
inside the cabin and we were gently rocked all night long, it took the
loudspeaker announcement that breakfast was being served in the cafeteria
(7:00-8:00 am) to wake us up and get us moving. Imagine our surprise
when we saw the coastline of the Baja and realized that by 9 o’clock we
would be landing at Pichilingue, just north of La Paz! Announcements were
made about returning cabin keys to the information desk, pronto! We were
enjoying our leisurely breakfast of scrambled eggs with ham, chilaquiles,
beans, tortillas, and coffee and figured we had plenty of time to deal
with that. And we were so enjoying the scenery as we approached the terminal
at Pichilingue, including seeing some sea lions playing in the water.
Return key announcements were sounding a bit more serious, as we made
our way back to the cabin to finish packing, and then they called my name
over the loud speaker, reminding me to bring my key, ASAP!!! We were
able to put our bags in a cordoned area in front of the reception desk
and recovered the driver’s license after returning the key. It seems as
if the crew tries to clean the cabins quickly so they are ready for the
passengers who will be boarding for the return to Mazatlán. We cabin passengers
were the first to disembark. When we arrived at the terminal our baggage
was inspected by military personnel and we were on our way quickly. The
greatest challenge was getting our bags down the stairs since, unlike
Mazatlán, there weren’t any maleteros (porters) to assist us.
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