ALL ABOARD! A BAJA FERRY ADVENTURE

By Lynne Hopkins Hernandez

For several years I have been wanting to take the ferry from Mazatlán to La Paz and finally had that opportunity this spring. Here’s what happened: After using information from the daily newspaper Noroeste and the ferry schedule, I made reservations for a hotel in Los Cabos and a return by air about a week later. Fortunately, about 10 days before the Monday we were to depart, I stopped at the ferry terminal and discovered that the Monday departure was for cargo only, but that the ferry leaving the day before had facilities for passengers. I then tried to purchase tickets for that Sunday or at least make reservations for two persons and a basic cabin. But the itinerary wasn’t yet available on the computer. Karla, who speaks great English, asked me to call on the preceding Monday to see if the itinerary would be online. After about two hours of busy signals, I was able to reach her that Monday and was told to come in on Tuesday to complete the transaction. I arrived there around 10:30 a.m. that Tuesday hoping that the computerized itinerary would be up and running.  Karla, who was on a LONG phone call, told me to sit down and wait a few minutes.  When she approached me she was carrying a nice glass of cold water, I knew that those few minutes would morph into 30-45!  Finally, she called me up to the counter and sold me two  tickets for travel, one for 770 pesos, and the other for 700 pesos (thanks to my INSEN discount), and a cabin (camarote) for 250 pesos.  The tickets included the price of both dinner and breakfast, and a seat in the salon if one were inclined to use it. We were scheduled to sail on the Sinaloa Star at 3:00 p.m. the following Sunday and were told to arrive two hours ahead of departure. If we had been taking a vehicle, we’d have been told to be there three hours in advance. We arrived at the main terminal at 1:30pm and boarded the ferry 10 minutes later. We proceeded to the information/reception desk to obtain the key for our cabin and left a driver’s license as security. A staff member carried our bags, and we had time to explore the cabin area and the rest of the ship before departing from Mazatlán.  The salon, reminiscent of a very large airplane, has between 250-300 seats that are shaped to recline slightly. There are restrooms, TV and ample aisle space for those who elect to sleep on the floor during the overnight voyage. One family with many children had already made a nighttime “nest” with blankets and pillows in an aisle space close to the restrooms and next to a wall.  Passengers are able to move about freely on three different decks. The cabins and salon are on the main deck, cafeteria and lounging areas one deck up and the top deck houses the bar/lounge. We did not check out the area that contains vehicles, but no one is allowed to stay with or in a vehicle during the trip. Much to our surprise the ferry departed Mazatlán at exactly 3:00pm. With two intermittent blasts of the horn, she cast off and headed into the horizon! We sat on a bench on deck and watched the coastline of Mazatlán fade into the distance, then took a short siesta in the cabin to be fresh for sunset and dinner and any

evening activities. Our cabin had four single bunks, two uppers and two lowers, with a sink, mirror, small sitting area, storage shelves, life jackets, oscillating fan, overhead light, and reading lamps at the head of each bunk. Beds came with pillows and sheets. Soap and bottled water were in the cabin. Showers and bathrooms were located down the hall. Towels were not included. The showers are postage stamp size, but clean with warm water. Some cabins are available with only 2 beds and private bath for 400 pesos. We observed that there were twice the number of hall showers and bathrooms for men as for women. Guess more men travel on the ferry! Or maybe women prefer to have the cabins with bath included? The bar/lounge was a good place to sit and visit for a while before going out on deck to see a perfect sunset. Hunger set in before dinner was served in the dining area (6:30-8:00pm) and we were able to buy some popcorn and beverages to keep us content meanwhile. Dinner consisted of a choice of roast chicken or beef in a pipan sauce, with rice, beans and tortillas. This was included in the basic fare, but beverages cost extra. Dinner is served cafeteria style with lots of seating available on the second deck to enjoy the view and the food.  Staff was friendly and helpful. Afterwards we returned to the bar/lounge and had kahlua and cream while watching a DVD James Bond movie (in English) on a large screen TV.  The bar also served some basic foods, carne asada, burgers, fajitas, chi-cken, at reasonable prices.  Beers cost 20 pesos; water, 10; popcorn, 15; mixed drinks, 50. After the movie and a dose of Dramamine, we had no trouble sleeping. Because it’s so dark inside the cabin and we were gently rocked all night long, it took the loudspeaker announcement that breakfast was being served in the cafeteria (7:00-8:00 am) to wake us up and get us moving.  Imagine our surprise when we saw the coastline of the Baja and realized that by 9 o’clock we would be landing at Pichilingue, just north of La Paz! Announcements were made about returning cabin keys to the information desk, pronto! We were enjoying our leisurely breakfast of scrambled eggs with ham, chilaquiles, beans, tortillas, and coffee and figured we had plenty of time to deal with that.  And we were so enjoying the scenery as we approached the terminal at Pichilingue, including seeing some sea lions playing in the water.  Return key announcements were sounding a bit more serious, as we made our way back to the cabin to finish packing, and then they called my name over the loud speaker, reminding me to bring my key, ASAP!!!  We were able to put our bags in a cordoned area in front of the reception desk and recovered the driver’s license after returning the key. It seems as if the crew tries to clean the cabins quickly so they are ready for the passengers who will be boarding for the return to Mazatlán. We cabin passengers were the first to disembark. When we arrived at the terminal our baggage was inspected by military personnel and we were on our way quickly. The greatest challenge was getting our bags down the stairs since, unlike Mazatlán, there weren’t any maleteros (porters) to assist us.

 

 

 

 


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