By Myrna Guymer

For a small town, El Quelite has a lot to brag about. The huge archway at the entrance to the town is one example - it embraces the visitor like a hug. This was quickly evident to Zenaida Sandoval de Valdez, a secondary school English teacher, when she visited this picturesque community recently. One of the first things Zenaida noticed was the cleanliness of the town. “There is no garbage on the street and no graffiti either,” Zenaida said. Brightly painted tiled homes, neat cobble stoned streets, gardens ablaze with flowers, cascading bougainvillea trees, and friendly people relaxing in rocking chairs on tidy front decks, all added to the charm of El Quelite. Beside the shady town square, Zenaida stepped into the Church of Our Lady of Guadalupe. Its architecture is reflective of the mid-nineteenth century. As of February, the church now has a resident priest. Outside Los Arrieros Restaurant, Zenaida gathered with dozens of tourists and locals to watch a demonstration of the ancient ball game, Ulama. “Ulama dates back to pre Hispanic times, around 1500 A.D.,” said Maximiliano Bastidos, restaurant owner and host to the demonstration. He supports the promotion of his community and holds frequent demonstrations of Ulama and other traditional dances and ceremonies. One resident who truly knows the game is Jesus Arreola Osuna. Now, 74, he started playing Ulama at the age of 12 and played for 50 years. The solid ball used is made from a tree resin, similar to rubber. “It usually weighs about two and half kilograms,” (five and half pounds), said Jesus, who added that years ago it weighed up to four and half kilograms. Teams of men, all about 27 or 28 years of age, keep the ball in play by bunting it with their hips. Simple garments of leather around the hips — and the men’s agility — are the only protection for their bodies.