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I have some good news
and some bad news. The good news is that Mazatlán is experiencing an economic
boom, and that is also the bad news. On the positive side, after a few
years of stagnation and recession brought on by the War on Tourism, it
is refreshing to see Mazatlán bustling and prosperous. Forsaken locales
like the Freeman and the embryonic Marina Mazatlán are now beautified
wonders, the formerly listless Plazuela Machado is a cultural and entertainment
Mecca (no offense to the Prophet intended!), and even the embar-cadero
to Stone Island has become downright attractive. The Malecón is wider
and prettier, Ye Olde Towne is becoming illuminated and all my wife’s
brothers and sisters have jobs. Things are happening! And while the Golden
Zone is leaping and bounding to the north, and the Distrito Historico
is enjoying a renaissance, the greatest actual population expansion in
town is taking place far from the beach, on the other side of the tracks,
literally. Working class housing developments are popping out like beige
and pastel mushroom patches on the eastern side of the highway, along
with Pemex stations, shopping centers, traffic lights and all the other
trappings and trimmings of consumer society. Still, having lived in an
area that underwent an economic boom, I learned the hard way that in many
ways the
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quality of life deteriorates
even as the cash registers jingle and progress rules. The streets clog
up with late model cars bearing out-of-state plates, all your secret hideaways
become overrun with strangers and the phone company adds new digits to
your old number. It’s unsettling and bewildering. The promise of money
to be made draws all kinds of shady characters: shifty carpetbaggers,
fast buck artists, quacks, vice-ridden wandering minstrels, etc. Worse
yet, a flood of regulations arises, along with the accompanying gang of
lawyers, inspectors and bean counters A few people make a lot of money,
but not everybody benefits. If property values double overnight but your
income doesn’t, an economic boom is nothing to celebrate, especially if
the new building code enforcer decides your humble home needs upgrading,
and the assessor is right behind him promoting you into a higher tax bracket.
So Mazatlán’s growing popularity is a mixed blessing. To my mind, what
tips the scale in favor of the influx is that a lot of lively and enlightened
people are flocking to our haven. In recent years, I’ve met quite a few
fascinating newcomers who are adding a lot to Mazatlán’s cultural consciousness
and raising the level of cosmic cantina conversation to staggering new
heights. I’ll drink to that!
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