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It was late spring, the tail end of another glorious Mazatlán temporada,
and we knew that big bad summer was right around the corner. About a dozen
of my closest associates and drinking buddies decided to make one last
joint excursion to Isla de la Piedra/ Stone Island before heading north
or hibernating in front of the air conditioner til November. For those
of you who have never been, it’s sort of like Gilligan’s Island with cold
beer. If you feel adventurous, you can venture past the thatched roofed
restaurants and wander for hours along a virgin beach with nary a blanket
salesman in sight. Or so I’m told, I’ve never bothered. I’m all for unspoiled
nature for its own sake, but frankly it bores me. Still, I do appreciate
a certain amount of rusticity. A restaurant with no walls, a sandy floor
and hammocks hanging instead of ferns is my kind of place. When I grow
up I want to be the guy who walks around the beach all day with a large
iguana wrapped around his head, demanding that people take a picture and
give him money. Good old Stone Island, where you can pretend for a few
precious hours that it’s not the twenty-first century. Anyhow, we agreed
to meet at noon at the last palapa. Sra Brady likes to bring a picnic
basket with her wherever she goes. Even a quick jaunt to the store requires
a bottle of water, an apple, an orange and a donut or two. That’s just
for her. Take her to the beach and throw in a couple of toddlers, her
mother and a few brothers and sisters and you end up with some serious
luggage to be lugged. Never mind that they have all kinds of great food
and tasty beverages at very reasonable prices right there on the island,
and plenty of waiters to bring you whatever you want. All it takes is
a wave of the hand and a couple of words and your wish is their command.
But the way my wife and her mother see it, that’s just too easy. Better
pack a lunch instead, and hope the restaurateur won’t mind when we spread
our stuff across three tables and head for the bathrooms. Most of the
morning was spent grating carrots, boning fish and squeezing limes to
make that most perishable of delicacies, ceviche. And, of course, another
labor-intensive dish, refried bean purée with congealed cheese and sausage
in pop-off tupperware containers. Beach toys, dishes, silverware, life
preservers, extra clothing, etc. etc. By the time everything was prepared
and stowed to the satisfaction of the planning committee, we were already
running late and had more supplies to carry than when I climbed Mt. Kilimanjaro
with a party of eight. The only thing
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we lacked was tostadas.
The little red pick-up taxi waited patiently while we rounded up the extended
family, sort of like herding rabbits. Almost everyone was in the back
when our daughter got into the sunblock and had to be bathed and wrapped
in clean clothes. Then down the hill to my mother-in-law’s house to look
for stragglers and radishes. Then, only an hour late, we’re off in search
of tostadas. My wife was up front with the baby, so I didn’t get to discuss
her route selection and to this day do not know why we headed off down
the highway in the direction of Texas when Stone Island is due south.
Maybe the store she had in mind had exceptionally good tostadas. Anyhow,
half way out of town we stop at a store very similar to a dozen more conveniently
located stores, and discover they are sold out of tostadas. Ni modo, we
pull a U-turn and head south past the Bimbo bread factory and pull into
La Ley, Sinaloa’s answer to Walmart. Sra Brady, her lovely sister and
their mother trundle on in, and get into an altercation with the security
guard who won’t let them bring food and drink into the store. So the sister
comes back with the contraband items, and the dynamic duo charge in, stalking
the wild tostada. Meanwhile, we’re having a great time in the truck, with
the warm afternoon sun beating down on the asphalt, the driver cheerfully
tapping his head on the steering wheel, the kids screaming and trying
to jump out into traffic, and the clock ticking relentlessly away. I think
it’s safe to say that most men at some point have experienced exasperation
while waiting for a member of the fairer sex to get her kit and kaboodle
out the door. I tried commiserating with the taxista, but he just gave
me an unsympathetic look and turned up his radio. Fifteen, maybe twenty
fun-filled minutes later, the girls emerge with the tostadas, and more.
Thirty six slightly chilled beers, mayonnaise, tuna, canned corn, paper
towels, you name it. Everything except ice and a can opener. Oh, well,
maybe the waiter will bring us some ice and open cans for us. Off we go
to the lanchas, those floating wooden bathtubs that ferry passengers and
livestock to and from Stone Island. We’re just starting to board when
we realize we left the diaper bag with the camera in the taxi. Luckily,
we know his cell phone number and as quick as baked potatoes, he merrily
returns with the lost bag and this time, for sure, we’re almost there.
I will mercifully draw the curtain and spare the reader the gory details
of the rest of the day. At any rate, the need to guzzle the beers as rapidly
as possible before they got any warmer dimmed my memory a bit. But you
get the idea?
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