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When our editor asked me if I’d be willing to take a tour of Ceveceria del
Paci-fico in the old section of Mazatlán to prepare for this article, my
restrained response was: “Oh boy! Would I!” Situated in the old section
of the city just North of the shipping channel, the most identifiable feature
of this several block square industrial complex is twenty massive cylindrical
fermentation tanks, each 70 feet tall, and each with a capacity of about
60,000 gallons of product. The fermentation tanks, called unitanks, are
where natural, cold temperature controlled beer brewing takes place. The
tanks contain beer that undergoes the initial fermentation process, achieved
in about seven days. This first fermentation converts the “mosta,” or “wort”
(German for roots, or “beginnings”), into which yeast has been added, to
“green beer.” Following this, a second fermentation process used by all
seven Modelo Group Cerve-cerias, including Pacifico, is called the “Krausen
Process.” Mature beer, or Krausen, is added to green beer in specific proportions.
The Krausen Process, which adds at least another 15 days to the brewing
process, is marked by more vigorous activity of the yeast, aging and mellowing
of the beer that produces a clean, smooth and flavorful beer with better
foam. Then, the beer is cold filtered through diatomite filters to remove
any proteins or yeast, before bottling, capping, and finally, pasteurization
in the bottle. The oldest known recipes for beer were written about 6000BC
on clay tablets in Mesopotamia, the area between the Tigris and Euphrates
rivers in what is presently Syria and Iraq. Basically, beer is malted grain,
usually barley, and sometimes wheat, fermented by yeast, and flavored by
hops. The malting process involves three steps. First, the barley is steeped
in water for two or three days, allowing it to germinate. Next, the barley
is thoroughly dried, and then roasted. A light roast produces a light beer,
while burnt malt produces a darker beer, like Bock, Stout, or Porter. Most
breweries, including Mazatlán´s own Pacifico, use cereal “helpers” or adjuncts
to boost starch in the malted barley. In addition, adjuncts give character
to the beer. Pacifico uses corn flour and rice that is first milled, as
is the malted barley, before brewing begins. The carefully measured and
weighed grains are then placed in a massive covered stainless steel cereal
cooker, water added, and the mixture is boiled. Enzymes in the malted barley
convert the starches into wort, a fermentable liquid that tastes like the
juice of fresh pressed sugarcane. After cooling and filtering (Lauter Tun)
to separate the spent cereals, the liquid wort is sterilized in |
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huge stainless steel kettles, and hops are added to the wort. Hops is a
small green, pinecone like flower that grows on vines in temperate climates
and has been used as a bittering agent in beer at least since mid 700AD.
Hops also gives beer its aroma, and is a natural preservative. What comes
next is a critical stage in brewery craftmanship. The hot wort is cooled
with refrigeration until the precise temperature is reached for addition
of the yeast, and the beginning of fermentation. It is then transferred
into the unitanks, and what will be kegs and bottles of Pacifico or Corona
in 22 days or so. Today the beer is brewed in the same German tradition
as when Pacifico was founded in 1900. Of course, Pacifico no longer depends
upon ice delivered by California mail boat for their brewing. The lore of
beer and brewing is as old as human history, and many traditions and sayings
survive. It’s widely held that nomadic tribes first settled down to grow
grain for brewing beer. Bread evolved later. In ancient Mesopotamia, it
was customary for a grateful father-in-law to supply his new son-in-law
with all the mead (honey beer) he could drink for 30 days following the
marriage ceremony. Inasmuch as their calendar was based upon the lunar month,
the tradition became known as the “Honey Month,” and what has survived is
our very own “Honeymoon.” It was happenstance and not planning that forced
the Pilgrims to land on Plymouth Rock in 1620. The dire circumstance was
they had nearly run out of beer (ale) and had to replenish. Everybody drank
beer, even babies, because everyone knew drinking water could make you deathly
ill, while ale drinkers remained healthy. This was long before people realized
that bacteria exists, or that boiled wort destroyed the pathogens in the
water. “Don’t drink water, drink beer” was sage wisdom thousands of years
before anyone ever heard of Spring Break revelry. Before thermometers, br-ewers
had to determine the precise time for adding yeast to the cooling wort.
Too hot and the yeast would die, too cold and the yeast wouldn’t work, spoiling
the brew in either case. Brewers tested the wort by inserting a thumb or
finger to gage temperature. The common expression “Rule of thumb” survives.
Years ago, English pubs served their stout and ale in pint and quart size
flagons. If the imbibers became unruly, the publican shouted an appropriate
warning to settle down: “Mind your “Ps” and “Qs!” Other pub regulars had
whistles baked into their ceramic drinking mugs so they could alert the
server for a needed refill. Got it? Right! —“Wet your whistle!” Group tours
of the Pacifico Brewery can be arranged by telephoning 982-7900 or 982-7966,
ext. 1642, or check the Pacific Pearl website for further information. |
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