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June is the month of the sol- stice, or as people with less education
and more time on their hands say: the first day of summer. It makes a
good time to understand, if not celebrate, the fact that Mazatlán is located
in the tropics. So the topic of tropic is: what exactly IS a tropic, what
does it have to do with the solstice, and what’s in it for us? Well, as
the earth does its annual pas de due around the sun, it wobbles back and
forth so it can alternately bake one hemisphere while letting the other
one freeze. This creates the seasons (if you are dumb enough to live up
there where they have seasons.) But fortunately, when the northern hemisphere
tips towards the sun, it doesn’t roll all the way over, it just goes so
far then wobbles away in the opposite direction. Much like my last couple
of dates. The furthest point of wobble is the longest day of the year,
called the solstice (from the word “sol” meaning “a local beer” and “slice”
meaning “an obvious misspelling”.) And if you were to draw a line from
the sun to the center of the earth, it would pass through the earth’s
surface at a certain point. On the Spring and Fall equinoxes, when nights
are of equal length, your line would pass through the Equator (probably
creating an earthquake in Central America.) When the northern hemisphere
reaches its farthest tilt towards the sun, then stops and tips back, that
line will make a (fortunately imaginary) circle around the earth called
the Tropic of Cancer. Since there are two tropics, one here for summer
and one in the Southern hemisphere for winter, why call the one we live
near “Cancer? ” Well, a quick look at all the sun-smitten tourists out
collecting carcinomas ought to make that clear. No, seriously, it’s because
the solstice occurs in June, during the zodiacal sign of Cancer. The Ancients
(who have a lot of popular misconceptions to answer for, by the way) were
so obsessed with the tropic that they did things like digging wells right
on the tropic (in Egypt, not Somalia) so that the sun would only shine
on the bottom at the solstice.
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Great party trick, but
only interesting one day of the year. You can almost see Ptolemy’s guests
yawning and glancing at their hourglasses as he says, “No really, it’s
fascinating. Come back in June and it’ll blow your mind.” Here in Mexico
the tropic is marked by monumentally boring monuments, mostly cement spheres
with a circular line totally obscured by graffiti. Sic transit Gloria
monde. (Trans: Gloria got sick on the bus last Monday. Ever notice how
seldom you hear Latin here in Latin America?) So what does this all mean
in terms useful to the layman? (“Layman” is a classier term for “couch
potato”. There is no female equivalent of “layman”, at least to judge
from my last couple of dates.) The major thing it means, if you live below
the tropic, it gets REALLY hot because the sun is right up there on top
of you and gets better leverage to bake your brains out. It also means
you can get sunlight on the north sides of buildings, if that trips your
trigger-painters love it, if they have air conditioning. Further south,
at the equator you get the same thing, but worse. Seasons are obsolete
at the equator, by the way. In spring and fall the sun is directly overhead,
and in summer and winter it moves off and gives you a break. But not much
of one. Of course, South of the equator, the whole season/solstice thing
works backwards. If you know any Australians, you can imagine why. But
the main thing here, from your perspective and mine, is that Mazatlán
is south of the tropic. Which means this is tropical living, just like
Gaugain and all those famous beach bums lived. Tell your envious friends
back home in the “temperate zone.” For some reason having a climate that
can vary from over a hundred degrees Fahrenheit to thirty below is thought
of as “temperate” climactic behavior, whereas a place like this where
it’s always mid-eighties to mid-nineties is not, probably because the
zones got named by the Ancients. Who were said to see a message in the
annual spectacle of the solstice at the tropic. Something along the lines
of: “What? You haven’t gone back North yet?”
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