HAIL TAXI
By E.G. BRADY

Hail the hardworking Mazatlán taxista! Without him, we visitors would have a rough time making it back to the hotel. In this town, it is a prestigious high paying job, relatively speaking, and there are fewer loose nuts behind the wheel than in, say, New York City. Still, many have a certain NYC pushiness, and they will honk and shout at you as you are walking along, just in case you hadn’t realized you need a cab. Don’t mind them, they’re just doing their job. The most famous of the Mazatlán taxi armada is called, of all things, the pulmonia (lung disease, that’s a good name for marketing purposes!). Must have something to do with the frigid tropical breezes. These are the Volkswagen golf carts with no doors, so it’s easier to stumble in and out. Then there are the open air safaris, the only difference between a safari and a pulmonia being that the safari has doors, so that the College Tour scholars won’t fall out so easily. Safari! Now there’s a good appealing name. But nobody uses it, they all say pulmonia. Go figure. Then there are the ecotaxis, or cubiertos, which are sporty little sedans, usually red or green. They are maybe a bit cheaper, and sometimes it’s pleasant to roll up the windows and let the air conditioner do its thing, especially if your date has an elaborate hairdo that would not survive a stiff wind. Then there are the aurigas, those canvas covered pick ups with benches in the back. If your party exceeds the legal limit of four passengers, start looking for an auriga. They are generally willing to venture onto rougher roads and into rougher neighborhoods. Then there is the cushy job of airport taxista (“canario”, or canary, for their yellow paint job). They are only allowed to make the relaxing drive from the airport directly to the luxury hotel or wherever the arriving tourist wants to be dropped off. It is a fixed rate, a little over twenty US dollars, and it is by far the steepest fare you will pay here. Strike your own bargain with any taxista for your return to the airport, but don’t expect it to be much less than the ride in. Personally, I always try to flag down a middle aged or elderly type taxista. I have reached the grouchy old stage where these young hot shots and whippersnappers with their weird hair and loud ugly music really get on my nerves. Give me a slow poke gray haired driver with a quiet radio playing some Mexican music I’ve never heard. Sure, some people want an entertaining chauffeur (or here, chofer) a wisecracking, finger snapping live wire who flirts with the women and turns the bass on his stereo up so high you feel like a drum being pounded on. Of course, if you’re only here for a week or two, why not go for a fun, noisy ride? It’s different, it’s crazy, and after all, you’re on vacation. Don’t worry, I’ve never heard of a bad taxi wreck here (though once a bus ran into a train). All taxistas, young and old, take their jobs pretty seriously, and if they play the clown it’s all part of the show. The last few years, I’ve mainly gone with the same

kindly, trustworthy safarista, Adrian, especially since he invested in a cell phone. This way, I don’t have to go through the same friendly conversation over and over with each different friendly driver asking me in a friendly curious way all about where am I from, what am I doing here, what do I do back home, what nationality is my wife, how many kids do we have, do I have any other kids that I know of, etc. They should read you the Miranda act first, because I don’t know how to plead the fifth amendment in Spanish, and it probably doesn’t even exist down here. With Adrian, we talk about baseball, music, politics, and I never get the feeling of being interrogated. Not only that, there is also the trust factor. For example, one time my notorious brother MCB left his laptop unnoticed in the backseat, and Adrian brought it back right away. We have a standing arrangement, and I pay him maybe ten pesos more than the going rate and that way he is always eager to come get me anywhere anytime at the drop of a hat. No mid-summer storm or waterlogged distributor cap stops him. I have a special sympathy for the taxistas. Yours truly drove a cab in the frozen northlands of Edmonton, Alberta for almost a year before they fired me for hitting a parked car on an icy road, being unable to wrench the frozen stripped lug nuts off a flat tire and, the last straw, telling one too many attempted jokes over the radio (“Pull to the side exit and load the customer” “ It looks like he’s already loaded” “ Car seventy two, report to the office. NOW”). I must admit that if an airport customer was a newcomer to town, I had a special winding route (“How many bridges are there in this town?”). So thus I can relate to any taxista who tries to maximize his income - to - cost ratio by price tiering. In other words, if my Mexican wife gets the cab, it’s thirty pesos whereas to me it’s forty. Of course, this is only a suggested offer, and everyone is free to make a counter offer, whatever the market will bear. I hate to get too hardnosed, though, since gas is more expensive in Mexico than the US, and the cab fares are only a fraction of what they are now in an American city. This summer, in Seattle, I took a taxi just a few blocks and it was almost five bucks (“so keep the change”). Here for five bucks you can ride for many miles down the beachfront road, and get change back. Plus the taxis in Mazatlán are a lot cleaner here than the ugly old Plymouth Fury I was driving. Here they wash them religiously not just every day but after each shift. What they can’t repaint, they slap a coat of Armorall on. Still, the cabbies here have it easy. They never see snow. They drive around all year in their shirtsleeves. As in most cities, the taxi drivers know everything, so if you have any questions and the tourist information offices are closed, just hail a cab, take a ride down the waterfront and pump him for information. In a city of sand and rust, the Mazatlán taxi fleet is a shining example in many ways. And it is reassuring to know they certainly wouldn’t have put up with a driver like me for very long.

 

 

 

 


Email Us Your Comments or Suggestions
Copyright 1999
Mazatlan's Pacific Pearl
All Rights Reserved