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Hail the hardworking Mazatlán taxista! Without him, we visitors would
have a rough time making it back to the hotel. In this town, it is a prestigious
high paying job, relatively speaking, and there are fewer loose nuts behind
the wheel than in, say, New York City. Still, many have a certain NYC
pushiness, and they will honk and shout at you as you are walking along,
just in case you hadn’t realized you need a cab. Don’t mind them, they’re
just doing their job. The most famous of the Mazatlán taxi armada is called,
of all things, the pulmonia (lung disease, that’s a good name for marketing
purposes!). Must have something to do with the frigid tropical breezes.
These are the Volkswagen golf carts with no doors, so it’s easier to stumble
in and out. Then there are the open air safaris, the only difference between
a safari and a pulmonia being that the safari has doors, so that the College
Tour scholars won’t fall out so easily. Safari! Now there’s a good appealing
name. But nobody uses it, they all say pulmonia. Go figure. Then there
are the ecotaxis, or cubiertos, which are sporty little sedans, usually
red or green. They are maybe a bit cheaper, and sometimes it’s pleasant
to roll up the windows and let the air conditioner do its thing, especially
if your date has an elaborate hairdo that would not survive a stiff wind.
Then there are the aurigas, those canvas covered pick ups with benches
in the back. If your party exceeds the legal limit of four passengers,
start looking for an auriga. They are generally willing to venture onto
rougher roads and into rougher neighborhoods. Then there is the cushy
job of airport taxista (“canario”, or canary, for their yellow paint job).
They are only allowed to make the relaxing drive from the airport directly
to the luxury hotel or wherever the arriving tourist wants to be dropped
off. It is a fixed rate, a little over twenty US dollars, and it is by
far the steepest fare you will pay here. Strike your own bargain with
any taxista for your return to the airport, but don’t expect it to be
much less than the ride in. Personally, I always try to flag down a middle
aged or elderly type taxista. I have reached the grouchy old stage where
these young hot shots and whippersnappers with their weird hair and loud
ugly music really get on my nerves. Give me a slow poke gray haired driver
with a quiet radio playing some Mexican music I’ve never heard. Sure,
some people want an entertaining chauffeur (or here, chofer) a wisecracking,
finger snapping live wire who flirts with the women and turns the bass
on his stereo up so high you feel like a drum being pounded on. Of course,
if you’re only here for a week or two, why not go for a fun, noisy ride?
It’s different, it’s crazy, and after all, you’re on vacation. Don’t worry,
I’ve never heard of a bad taxi wreck here (though once a bus ran into
a train). All taxistas, young and old, take their jobs pretty seriously,
and if they play the clown it’s all part of the show. The last few years,
I’ve mainly gone with the same
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kindly, trustworthy
safarista, Adrian, especially since he invested in a cell phone. This
way, I don’t have to go through the same friendly conversation over and
over with each different friendly driver asking me in a friendly curious
way all about where am I from, what am I doing here, what do I do back
home, what nationality is my wife, how many kids do we have, do I have
any other kids that I know of, etc. They should read you the Miranda act
first, because I don’t know how to plead the fifth amendment in Spanish,
and it probably doesn’t even exist down here. With Adrian, we talk about
baseball, music, politics, and I never get the feeling of being interrogated.
Not only that, there is also the trust factor. For example, one time my
notorious brother MCB left his laptop unnoticed in the backseat, and Adrian
brought it back right away. We have a standing arrangement, and I pay
him maybe ten pesos more than the going rate and that way he is always
eager to come get me anywhere anytime at the drop of a hat. No mid-summer
storm or waterlogged distributor cap stops him. I have a special sympathy
for the taxistas. Yours truly drove a cab in the frozen northlands of
Edmonton, Alberta for almost a year before they fired me for hitting a
parked car on an icy road, being unable to wrench the frozen stripped
lug nuts off a flat tire and, the last straw, telling one too many attempted
jokes over the radio (“Pull to the side exit and load the customer” “
It looks like he’s already loaded” “ Car seventy two, report to the office.
NOW”). I must admit that if an airport customer was a newcomer to town,
I had a special winding route (“How many bridges are there in this town?”).
So thus I can relate to any taxista who tries to maximize his income -
to - cost ratio by price tiering. In other words, if my Mexican wife gets
the cab, it’s thirty pesos whereas to me it’s forty. Of course, this is
only a suggested offer, and everyone is free to make a counter offer,
whatever the market will bear. I hate to get too hardnosed, though, since
gas is more expensive in Mexico than the US, and the cab fares are only
a fraction of what they are now in an American city. This summer, in Seattle,
I took a taxi just a few blocks and it was almost five bucks (“so keep
the change”). Here for five bucks you can ride for many miles down the
beachfront road, and get change back. Plus the taxis in Mazatlán are a
lot cleaner here than the ugly old Plymouth Fury I was driving. Here they
wash them religiously not just every day but after each shift. What they
can’t repaint, they slap a coat of Armorall on. Still, the cabbies here
have it easy. They never see snow. They drive around all year in their
shirtsleeves. As in most cities, the taxi drivers know everything, so
if you have any questions and the tourist information offices are closed,
just hail a cab, take a ride down the waterfront and pump him for information.
In a city of sand and rust, the Mazatlán taxi fleet is a shining example
in many ways. And it is reassuring to know they certainly wouldn’t have
put up with a driver like me for very long.
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