Having grown up thinking that a taco was basically a hamburger with a crispy bun, it has been a real adventure moving to Mazatlán and discovering true, authentic Mexican food. My mother-in-law is one of the world's greatest cooks, and my wife is her star pupil. Through them, I have been introduced to a new culinary world. I have always prided myself on being someone willing to try exotic delicacies such as frog legs, trout cheeks, sushi, escargots and other treats not recommended for the squeamish. Nevertheless, I must admit to being a bit taken aback when I lifted the lid of the menudo pot and noticed cow hooves simmering away in the broth. I guess that's where it gets its unique hangover-curing properties, but I imagine some of my compatriots might prefer the hangover. My in-laws have a small yard that at any given time has ten, twenty, maybe even thrity ducks and chickens of all ages and sizes running around cheeping and squawking and trying to get in the house. Whenever any of them commits a transgression, such as laying an egg in a neighbor's yard, the punishment is "al plato" (to the plate), often in the form of pozole. A traditional stew with maize and secret spices, pozole is something any non-vegetarian would like. My wife's favorite dish is tortas de camarón, a sort of pancake made with eggs, refried beans and shrimp powder. Somehow, the process of pulverizing the shrimp into dust eliminates the need for refrigeration, and the stuff can be stored in a cupboard for months without losing that pungent flavor. In the U.S., we say "As American as apple pie." Down here, they say "As Mexican as nopales." The nopal is the

cactus the eagle is perched on as it appears on the Mexican flag (see Aztec legend number one). It grows wild all over around here, and makes for a great side dish. It is important to remove the spines before chopping and sautéeing. The nopal has grease-absorbing properties and is an excellent complement to red meat. It also has plenty of vitamins and is remarkably tasty for a green vegetable. Of course, put enough lime, salt and salsa on anything and it will taste good. Not only is my mother-in-law an expert in the kitchen, she is also very knowledgable in regard to herbs and plants. The savila cactus, for example, which also grows wild all over around here, is essentially a tube of aloe vera gel with a green peel wrapped around it. It soothes burns and scrapes, is a great lotion, and has helped me through some painful sunburns. Then there is bruja, a green leafy shrub that relieves the agony of food poisoning, somewhat. Cimarrona is said to induce labor rapidly, and it certainly did seem to work when our son surprised the doctor by popping out a few hours earlier than expected. When my in-laws get sick, before they go to the farmacia, they go to the garden. I can always tell when my wife is coming down with a cold because she wraps herself up from head to toe in poultices of sliced tomato and cucumber. If she has a headache, there is a bandana around her head with leaves sticking out of it. Thank heaven I do not get sick much since I quit doing my own cooking. But when I do, I stick to my father-in-law's panacea: cheap mezcal in a clay cup. What it won't fix, you won't notice.

(Note: none of the aforementioned remedies have been approved by the FDA.)