MAZATLAN'S MAJESTIC MALECON
By Donelle Fenwick McBartlett
If you look at a map of Mazatlán and think of it in terms of the human body, the long and winding malecón-- the seaside walkway beside Mazatlán's shores-- looks like a backbone, or a spine. And, if you think about the significance of the traversing malecón as it meanders from the original Mazatlán through the Golden Zone and north onto the end of Cerritos Beach, it becomes apparent that the malecón really is "the backbone" of the port city. Without a doubt, Mazatlán's majestic malecón is the most intriguing promenade in all the Americas. Skirting along seven beaches and spanning an area of fourteen miles from Olas Altas to Punta Cerritos, the traversing sidewalk gently graces the adjoining Sea of Cortez. Because of this, the malecón provides the opportunity to experience the daily maritime activities along Mazatlán's aqua blue coastal waters and a unique communiqué with nautical nature. The malecón is also a multi-faceted medium for the vast and varied life styles of its patrons. Most magnificent, as viewed from the malecón, are the crashing waves which seemingly taunt the shoreline immediately below the walkway. Beachcombers spend hours playing "chase" with the water as it sometimes reticently rolls, then races back and forth to the beach in a mesmerizing fashion. During early morning hours, you'll hear the stark-sounding "caws" of seafaring birds as they cruise the coastal waters in search of what will be the first of many dives of the day for fish which have ventured too close to the surface for their own comfort. The wildlife of the waters are soon joined by México's military, whose footsteps strut mandatory exercises each morning on the malecón. An impressive sight and sound, the malecón is transcended into a lengthy exercise "gym" as daily joggers, whose bodies are poised for the picturesque promenade, are joined by would-be athletes as they momentarily mingle with the military, all making the most of a morning workout along the malecón. Usually between 9 and 10 a.m. daily, vendors begin lining the malecón with their interesting wares, ranging from remarkable hand-carved likenesses of tropical birds and fish on native woods to hand-woven "palm" hats to regional and ethnic clothes to raspados -- fresh fruit and juices mixed with ice which make a thirst-quenching drink. During the day, the malecón takes on a life of its own with its sidewalk vendors. While at times the lifestyle of a sidewalk vendor may be frugal, depending on the number of tourists who come calling, it is a lifestyle which offers a freedom that is incomparable with regimented office life which is restrained by cubicles and punch-card hours. No matter the hour of the day, Mazatlán's malecón is the place where romances are made. It's winding walkway provides would-be lovers a getaway and an opportunity to dream of a life-to-be while holding hands or leisurely strolling with their arms wrapped around each other. It is not uncommon to pass a kissing couple along the malecón. The romantic mood of the malecón, which permanently laces the air with imaginative hearts and arrows, has become so common that the affectionate novios-- boyfriends and girlfriends-- have become as familiar of a sight on the malecón as the waves rocking to and from the shore below. Home to four majestic monuments, one to the fishermen in the nearby sea, another to the continuity of life, a third to the beautiful women of Mazatlán and one honoring the wild deer (from which the name "Mazatlán" is derived) as well as the largest (505 feet high) lighthouse in the world, the malecón is truly a walking art gallery of the outdoors. Not much is known about the construction of the malecón, except for the fact that everyone remembers it "always being there." There was a definite pride, however, when it's construction began because the yellow, blue and maroon tiles-- which are an artwork in themselves-- show that someone knew the significance of what was being built and wanted to make the walkway as beautiful as the sea beside it. Somewhere along the way, however, the significance of the malecón either became lost or underestimated because the once colorful tiled walkway was soon

expanded with unimaginative slabs of concrete. With that modern-day makeover, much of the "magic" of Mazatlán's malecón began to become lost-- just as myths which are only shared by mouth become lost when no one takes time to write them down. For over four centuries, Mazatlán's malecón has played a significant role in the life of Mazatleco's and visitors alike. Even in the fast-paced world in which we live today, people still return to the malecón for an early morning jog, for a place to pause during the day and meditate or for a spot to earn a living from a catering cart. The malecón has truly "walked" Mazatlán from one century to another. And it is about to do that once again. But what will happen to the malecón itself now that Mazatlán is expanding even farther north? Although it was included in the expansion of Mazatlán, having just recently been expanded to the farthest point north on Cerritos Beach, not much planning around it has taken place beyond the basic construction of the promenade. The malecón should always be the focal point from which the city begins, expands and ends. If it is possible for the sand and sea beside the malecón to mingle as harmoniously as they have century after century, then so should it be possible for Mazatlán's majestic malecón to gracefully guide Mazatlán from the city which went before us into the city of tomorrow. Just as the sand and sea mingle together, so should both worlds along the malecón. The malecón should be a testament to the past which must be carefully preserved as well as a stepping stone to the future in the Golden Zone area and beyond. The malecón could be preserved in stages based on its own history as well as the history of each portion of Mazatlán which adjoins it. From hand hewn tiles along the "Olas Altas" (high waves) area to a "golden brick walkway" further north, which leads you into the Golden Zone, the malecón deserves to be preciously preserved because it stands alone as the introduction to the adjoining sea on one side of it and the port city on the other. And the old Mazatlán-- el viejo or colonia Mazatlán-- should not be tossed aside like an unwanted stepchild in favor of the newly adopted and beautiful "daughter"-- the Golden Zone. With interesting sights just steps away from any given point along the malecón, such as the sport fishing fleets, March 31 Fort, the archeological museum, Angela Peralta Theater, divers' show and aquarium (to name just a few), the malecón has more significant sights in a four mile area to visit-- and expand around-- than most cities can offer on the whole. By placing historical markers along the way which explain the points of interest in the adjoining Sea of Cortez (such as the names of the Tres Islas), birds native to the area, descriptions about the wildlife estuaries which the malecón traverses and certainly the mythological stories of the sea, the malecón could be a focal point for which travel agencies throughout the world would call attention to when making reservations for travel to México. Graffiti "artists" need to be forced to back street bordellos to express themselves and not be allowed to clutter anything within eye shot of the malecón with their distasteful, offensive and ugly pastime. A patriotic pride should be taken to assure that businesses and residences along the entire fourteen mile stretch of the malecón are continually upgraded, making the malecón an inviting haven in the years to come. The malecón is more than an everyday sidewalk. It is represents the very essence of Mazatlán: a place where the Sea of Cortez and a land of paradise had the good fortune to meet. But Mother Nature cannot continually do it all. The people of Mazatlán have a perfect promenade which can be the pride of the people and the glittering prize in paradise. Just as the waves tell the maritime story of life which continues to flow to and from the beach, so should the malecón tell a similar story about the mores of the Mexican people, their colorful culture and their history which is worth remembering and restoring. For if there is no passion for preserving the past, what will people have to look forward to when building their tomorrows?

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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