In our January issue, we featured a story on the malecón-- Mazatlán's long, winding seawall ("Mazatlán's Majestic Malecón..."). In this article, the malecón was referred to as "the backbone" of Mazatlán because it is the principal support of Mazatlán's most memorable sites. In keeping with this perspective, our next several issues will include self-guided walking tours that incorporate significant attractions located along the malecón. This month, we explore the historic area that stretches out behind the malecón at Olas Altas.

Our tour begins at the Mercado Central (Central Market), in the heart of centro (downtown), or "Old Mazatlán." To get to the market, flag down the Sabalo Centro bus from the Golden Zone (for only 2.60 pesos) and stay in it until you get to the Cathedral. The bus will take you along the malecón (sit on the right side of the bus-- if you can score a seat-- to watch the waves roll in). Before the bus turns left off the malecón, towards the downtown area, you will notice the lines of fishing boats (and their "fan club" of pelicans) along the shore, which is where the fishermen sell their just-caught seafood (mariscos in Spanish). The bus will then proceed downtown. After driving up and then down a hill, you should notice the Cathedral to your left. It's two towering yellow turrets will be visible from most of the downtown and is a great navigational landmark for orienting yourself. Buzz the "timbre" button and get off just before the Cathedral. Usually, a majority of passengers will also be getting off at this stop. Then simply walk up to the end of the street (G. Nelson), turn left on 21 de Marzo and left again on Benito Juarez (the street on the east side of the Cathedral). The market is on the right side of Benito Juarez. This is only a one or two-minute walk from the bus stop to the market. For those unwilling to brave the bus crowd (you'll wonder how all those people fit in one bus), take a taxi or a pulmonia (open-air taxi resembling a golf cart) directly to the central market for 30 pesos. Be sure to confirm the fare with the driver before beginning your journey. The market's proper name is the Pino Suárez central market. By the end of the nineteenth century, Mazatlán was a prosperous, growing city. It already had piped water, electric lights, telephones, streets with sidewalks, a theatre, a cathedral and a new beer factory in the works... but it needed a proper market. Prior to Pino Suárez, the market was held in a variety of impermanent locations, the last of which was assembled across from the new cathedral-- in front of city hall-- in what is now the Plazuela Republica. But this market had no organized planning; vendors improvised with whatever materials were available to them, creating a maze of stalls that soon became repulsive, due to the absence of drainage. Finally, in July of 1895, a new market was proposed. This was to be a large, clean, safe, well-ventilated market. The new market would be of Art Nouveau design, constructed of iron instead of wood-- like the Eiffel Tower, which was built only seven years prior. This new design seemed appropriate for an ambitious city, destined for excellence. After proposing and ruling out several possible venues, construction began in October, 1896, on the grounds of the Plaza de Toros Carnaval-- a former bull ring once situated on the market's present location. The market was ready and inaugurated on May 5, 1899, though it took until December to organize renting out vendors' spaces (which, when available, were snatched up within days). Once the vendors were moved in, the market quickly became "the place" to gather-- both for groceries and to socialize. Today, the Pino Suárez central market is still a popular place to gather for the latest gossip and to buy everything from souvenirs to fruit. It is also a place where patrons can stop for a bite to eat. Restaurants are located on the second floor. This level was added to the west side of the building in 1951. To access these restaurants, enter the market from the west side (directly across from the yellow and red Elektra electronics store) and climb the stairs to your immediate left. (This is also the entrance where the Sabalo Centro will stop if you were wishing to return to the Golden Zone.) Downstairs, wander through the many food and sundry components whose energetic vendors give the market its dynamic personality. The market is open from dawn to dusk. From the market, follow the bright yellow towers back to the Cathedral, at calle (street) Guillermo Nelson and Benito Juarez. The Basilica de la Inmaculada Concepción, or Cathedral of the Immaculate Conception, celebrated its centennial birthday on May 7, 1999. Although construction originally began in 1856, work stopped from 1875 to 1899 under the Reform Laws of then-President Juarez. Construction resumed again in 1899 under párroco (the head priest of a parish) Miguel Lacarra. The Cathedral was finally completed under Lacarra. One fascinating anecdote during construction occurred when a bystander criticized Estanislao Leon, the master mason, of building crooked walls that would eventually collapse. A worried Don Leon tested the accusation with dynamite, observing the vibrations of the explosions at various points along the four walls. Nothing happened then, nor has the cathedral faltered in the face of earthquakes or hurricanes over the past 100 years. If you choose to go inside the Cathedral, please respect the services, which are held every 6:30 a.m., 7:30 a.m., 12 noon, 6 p.m. and 7 p.m. Monday to Saturday and every hour from 6 a.m. to 8 p.m. on Sundays. Upon entering the Cathedral, you may be astounded by the grandeur and magnitude that surrounds you. When you manage to pick your jaw up off the ground, take a few minutes to appreciate the decorative