COVERING THE WATERFRONT ON YOUR BIKE
By Jeanette McElroy

"HMazatlán is a wonderful place to ride a bicycle because there are so many different rides, each offering a unique look at this magnificent city and a taste of biking adventure to suit every palate. Visitors to Mazatlán should seek bike rental shops, then they can discover the many treasures that are either invisible at the speed of cabs and buses or are impossible for the weary pedestrian. A great place to start is the Malecón (seawall). One end of the ride is at the base of Isla de Creston, one of the many "mini mountains" that dot the coastline of Mazatlán and form that protective barrier that has appealed to seaman since Cortez and his countrymen stopped by as early as 1531. El Faro, one of the world's tallest lighthouses, is at the top of a steep hiking trail on this island. A rock jetty joins it to the mainland and the natural harbor formed on one side is anchorge for cruising sailboats from all over the world. The waves splash dramatically onto the rocks as you ride from there up another of those little mountains called Cerro del Vigia. For 200 years it was the site of a small presidio (prison) used to harass local pirates who loved to sneak out from behind the string of islands to attack the city or ships full of gold and plunder. The next hill is called Icebox Hill because it was used in more recent centuries to store blocks of ice shipped in from San Francisco. You'll ride past the opening to a cave (Devil's cave) used for years by the Mayan culture before the Spaniards showed up. The view as you climb, looking out to sea, is of more island "mini mountains." These islands also have colorful history and names: Tortuga Hermanos (Turtle Brothers-- they are shiny white rocks), Isla Venado (Deer Island), Isla Pájaros (Bird Island), Isla Lobos (Wolf Island) all the way up the coast to Punta Camarón (Shrimp Point). Whether you start or finish at this end of the ride, it is the least trafficked and the most scenic, so take deep draughts of the beautiful Pacific vista. The Malecón then runs along a historic boulevard for a few

miles, around prominent hills where some of Mazatlán's finest old homes are. A quick climb to the top of any side street offers panoramic views of the city and seacoast. The section of the old city referred to as Olas Altas is waterfront, settled many years ago. For hundreds of years, the ocean has crashed ashore on one side of this seawall. On the other side a wide tiled sidewalk stretches for miles. This popular promenade is used by every one from bikers to skateboarders and roller bladers, as well as vendors with pushcarts. You'll see families out for a walk, lovers strolling arm in arm and oldsters ambling and smiling their "buenas tardes." Everyone is reasonable about sharing the space and mutual respect makes it all flow, but a bike rider with too much "intent" would be wise not to choose Sunday afternoon or any other equally obvious high traffic time. At intervals on the route are bronze monuments, tributes to some aspect of local lifestyle and lore. More than that though, they are each a unique scene and gathering place, the perfect rendezvous and a natural resting spot. Resting on the wall is like settling in to watch a parade or maybe a soccer game happening on the beach. The experience is one of seeing all the folks of Mazatlán enjoying their life, so it should be ridden slowly and with an eye to the culture in review. The beach rolls up to the wall all the way and there are great seafood restaurants to enjoy, so plan your day to include lunch or dinner with a view. The Zona Dorada begins at about Valentinos, and whichever end you started on, the Malecón ride will change dramatically at this point. The wide tile walkway is narrower and the going is a little slower due to increased foot traffic. There are plenty of bikes still choosing this course and staying on the sidewalk is a reasonable route because whatever your ability and desire to ride in traffic, you should prepare yourself before you ride into the heavy flow of the Sabalo. Seek local knowledge and have nothing but fun on your bicycle exploration of this friendly city. And don't forget your helmet!

 

 

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