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I have never been on a tank before; I don't think that I ever will. But
I can now proudly say that I have been in a US Army all-terrain verhicle,
which took me on my trip to Deer Island. The property of El Cid Marine Resort,
the Lark-5 is a 1964-built army surplus truck-cum-boat that taxis people
from the marina at El Cid to the island. Affectionately known as "the Shark,"
it really did provide an individual element to the start of my visit. Deer
Island has long provided myth to Mazatlán: home of wondrous, inaccessible
ancient Mayan cave paintings, a central pawn in the battle against the French,
and smuggler hideout, amongst many other legends. Now it is the nation's
property and completely open to all visitors in it's entirety - beach, highlands
and steep cliffs. The main attraction of Deer Island is its peacefulness.
Located about 1km from the Playa Las Gaviotas, La Isla Venados (Deer Island)
is the second of the three islands, with Isla Lobos (Wolf Island) to the
left and Isla Pajaros (Bird Island) to the right, as looking from the shore.
Going across to the island can seem like a trip to another world, a hideaway
from the bustle of the Golden Zone. The island itself offers little to really
do; that said, the main attraction is the wide, soft-sanded beaches; looking
on to the Mazatlán coast is definitely reason enough to come to enjoy this
sanctuary. Sitting on the beach is a very secluded, personal affair. With
three boats daily from the El Cid Marina, I shared the beach with only a
handful of people. There was no army of vendors selling assortments of t-shirts,
bags or jewellery. All that the island has by way of commerce is José, one
of two people that live on the island. He sells a variety of cold refreshments,
and adds a particular flavour running around in his shorts, keeping "his"
beach clean. "You should come here at night, especially when it's a full
moon," he told me, "and sit on the beach listening to the music coming across
the water from Bora-Bora. This, my friend, is where you want to go dancing:
the best night-club in the world." As I discovered very soon after my arrival,
José is the island´s hospitality representative, though it's a title a little
too formal and cumbersome, given his comfortable and relaxed approach. He
looks after the day cruises that come in, up to twice daily, feeding them
and keeping them full of drinks. Generally, this can be up to forty people,
most of whom are given complimentary day-cruise tickets as an enticement
to listen to a time-share sales pitch. Given that the cost of the cruise
is $35US, the price paid for two hours of listening |
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to a well-worn speech
seems fair. And so sitting on the beach with barely a few companions,
I was almost shocked when I saw 23 day-cruisers "invade" my island. (I
had already begun to feel protective about it, after having been there
for only half an hour!) They all came off their boat, found themselves
places to soak in the sun, and then disappeared into the water for the
island´s main activity - snorkelling. Compared to the mainland beaches,
the water on Deer Island is much clearer and calmer. The waves are more
like ripples than anything else, due to the location of the beach. When
I went, there was a fair amount of wind, which limited the underwater
visibility, but I was told by an American couple that the visibility can
be incredible, up to forty of fifty feet. On a previous visit to the island,
the couple had been very fortuanate to snorkel into a group of placid
stingrays; there were approximately fifty of them gliding, hovering and
swooping. The serenity and peacefulness of the image of swimming amongst
stingrays was powerful enough to persuade me to go snorkelling on the
island. There are also many different types of fish and some coral, easily
accessible towards the north section of the island, also said to be worth
seeing. The afternoons on the islands are "periods of exertion," a very
relative term. José enjoys his volleyball, and is adept at persuading
the different people to play, encouraging them vociferously: "Come on,
don´t be shy... But don't be upset if you lose!" Unsurprisingly, Jose´s
volleyball is full of confidence and skill, and can make an hour in the
afternoon pass very quickly. The afternoons are also visiting time. Given
the proximity to the mainland beach, many people make their own way across
to the island: the energetic by kayak, the more distinguished by catamaran,
while the downright brave swim across. The result is an eclectic group
of people, many using the island as the afternoon's breaking point to
get a cold beer. All, however, enjoy the island's seclusion and tranquility,
trying to escape for a moment from "regular life" in Mazatlán. The trip
to Deer Island is one that comes highly recommended, albeit with a little
hesitation. I can't but help feel that that the less people go, the better.My
advice, therefore, would be to go now, before the island develops and
has a booming commercial enterprise, such as a shop or a telephone. For
now, however, the island is an isolated beach of escapism, perfect for
a relaxing, secluded afternoon's snorkelling, or time spent indulging
in a book. However you look at it, time spent on Deer Island is time well
spent.
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